4 Rules to follow Before Carving into Sand Molds:
These guidelines will help you create a successful iron casting from your “DIY”scratch tile sand molds.
SAFETY FIRST! We HIGHLY recommend wearing an N95 dust mask & safety glasses when carving sand. Flying sand grains and dust could irritate your eyes and throat if carving aggressively.
MIRROR IMAGE: If your design involves words or numbers, you MUST CARVE THEM BACKWARDS and IN THE REVERSE DIRECTION (so you will start on the right, and work to the left). Sand molds are a mirror opposite of what the iron casting will become. It is not your final product, remember that the casting is the reverse of whatever you carve into the sand.
3. BORDER ROOM: You can design beyond the embosses shape within the sand mold, but leave at least 1 inch of sand space between your design and the edge of the mold, and at least a 1/2 inch of sand thickness on the bottom of the mold. This is roughly 1” of potential carving from the bottom of the embossed shape. If you go too deep, or carve too much, it will make your mold very thin and may result in breakage or potentially carving straight through. If this happens, DO NOT PANIC, but know that your piece might need to be repaired with glue that will likely show up as a texture or cracked line on your casting. Also, the more you carve, the heavier the casting,.. so be mindful of this as well.
4. BE CREATIVE! Feel free to go outside the lines a little. Bend the rules, or try different way to connect the two hearts (if you have that style of mold), and merge them as one big thing if you want to. If you have an awesome idea that's not heart shaped & you want to fulfill it at this pour ~ go for it! Let the embossed shape be your starting point, and go from there!
Above: Here are your only physical boundaries :}
Above: Example of how the metal flows into all areas where the carving is connected, becoming one piece!
6 Design Tips to Get Started !!
Tip 1: Draw it out: Using a graphite pencil, draw your design/ image / words / ideas on paper first. If you need to reverse the image because you have words, draw it onto wax paper, or flip your paper over and put the drawing up onto a window to trace the design onto the back of the paper. You can use this initial tracing as a visual cue to help you see what the final carving on the sand mold SHOULD look like.
Tip 2: Transfer the design: Cut out your drawing like a stencil, or poke holes through the lines on your drawing and transfer the design to your sand mold with a sharp pencil or sharpie that presses directly onto the sand mold. You can connect the dots to finish out your design, or free hand the rest onto the sand mold before you start carving. Make sure you like what you see before you start to scratch into the sand!
Wisconsin.....Drawn Backwards of course !! Remember to do your design in reverse if you want to see your final iron casting to read "correctly". (*this is subjective of course!*)
Tip 3 : Layer it up!: With our idea drawn out on the mold, you’re ready to carve into your sand. If you want LAYERS in your design, start with the layer that you want to be the tallest, ie: DEEPEST or THICKEST, in your casting. This will help you set the limit of how deep to go, and then you work backwards from there. Remember that everything you scratch away in the sand will fill back in with metal. This is called a "reductive process", meaning you are taking material away in order to create the substance of your final form.
Tip 4 : Size matters: Carving tiny "charm-like" features that are separate from the main design is really tough for us to hit with our ladle filled with 100lbs of molten metal. Chances are, you'll just get a giant sloppy chunk of metal that we tried to desperately make successful. Make sure your “charms” are at least 3” in diameter is ideal and will give you the most chances of success!
Tip 5: Think of “the flow”: Imaging how the molten iron can get to all your details will help you carve a successful design. If you want to create details that scatter off from the main shape a bit, such as creating flowing strands of hair, for example, try to keep those features at least 1/4 " wide and 1/4” deep. When we pour these tiny features with a big ladle, and it's difficult draw the iron into each little strand without over filling it. Making these features at least 1/4 wide and deep will give you the most chance of the metal flowing into them naturally, and also not breaking off too easily when we shake out your final casting from the hardened sand mold.
Tip 6 : Where does this casting LIVE after it’s made? Thinking about what you want to do with your cast iron art piece will help inform certain design decisions as you carve. Ask yourself these questions:
Does it hang it on the wall ? Is it a sign inside or outside? Will you use it as a trivet on the table ? Is it meant to live in your garden? Will it be a part of something bigger that you are building? Will it hold something in particular like a candle or your keys or your phone? Does it need to be set it into cement or epoxy to make a plaque or stepping stone outside?
How will it hang? You can scratch a 1/4” thick hanging loop to display the final iron creation using a nail afterwards. Iron is also MAGNETIC, so consider purchasing one of our Magnetic Display Hangers at the event to just stick you casting onto.
Does it live in the Garden?: You could carve a spike onto the bottom of a sign and use that to push into the earth for a unique little pathway or garden sign, or in quiet spaces within your backyard with a small message.
Mounting and setting: Another idea is to carve tabs on the outside of your shape so you can drill a hole into it later for mounting, or to sink it into epoxy or to set the tabs behind a frame.
For trivets: carve all your details to the same depth for a level surface that is easy to grind flat after.
Carve a hanger loop that will cast as part of your iron piece.
Tabs can be drilled afterwards for mounting.
Common tools to use for carving into your sand mold:
Long metal nails~ The favorite here. The flat head side is great for broad strokes of sand removal, while the point is great for details.
Old chisels~ Let me emphasize "OLD" here, as you wouldn't want destroy a nice sharp wood working chisel by cutting into the sand.
Metal banding or strapping~ Great for large & deep carving. You can bend it into a "U" shape, and use it to scoop the sand out with it. Make sure to wear gloves with metal banding. It’s sharp!
Dremel Tools~ Wonderful finishing detail tool. * note: YOU MUST wear all safety gear possible! Also know that you will destroy whatever cutting tool you decide to use with it, so don't use something expensive like a carbide tip. Diamond tips are pretty durable cutters, and a cheap/disposable set will get you through the work on these sand molds. Find them at any Harbor Freight or Northern Tool store for the best value.
Dental Tools~ If you happen to have any, these hard stainless tools are great for tiny finishing details.
Kitchen Utensils~ Spoons, forks, scoops & butter knives all work really well for their own characteristic advantages. A spoon makes concave half-spheres into the sand like bubbles, and a fork can create grids or other patterns with a steady hand. Don’t let the handles go to waste either! Some utensils have squared off or pointed ends that can be a great carving tool as well. Follow those mark-making efforts up with another detail tool for a final finished carving.
REACH OUT if you have questions!
Hope this gives you a strong start to your sand mold carving adventures! But if you run into any snaffoos, questions or concerns, don't hesitate to reach out to Alisa@FeLionStudios.com. She is more than happy and willing to walk you through the process steps and get you the best casting you can make!